By JANELLE BROWN
YOU should have
seen this place when we bought it,"
Rhoni Epstein said, looking across the
patio of her 1954-vintage hotel. "There
was no roof, just two plywood boards.
There was tar on the floors, sand on the
deck, a leak in the gas line. We had to
rip out the pool and retile it."
These days, though, the Sagewater Spa
in the hills of Desert Hot Springs,
Calif., – just north of Palm Springs –
is a restful modernist haven, all
pristine white and cool green. Hidden
behind the high walls that screen the
seven-room hotel from the outside world,
guests soak in the mineral waters of the
pools and receive massages in their
rooms. BMW's and Mercedeses are parked
out front; in the evenings, on the
softly lighted patio, guests share the
Champagne and foie gras from their
minifridges.
Palms Springs is a town with no
shortage of hotels; if anything, there
is a glut, particularly of the
faded-motel and budget-chain varieties.
There has long been, however, a lack of
any that could remotely be called cool.
The town now caters more to AARP
members, college students on spring
break and vacationing golfers than the
youthful hipster crowd that originally
put it on the map.
Thanks to midcentury modern
revivalism, though, the young and
stylish have again started to pay
attention to Palm Springs, a town with
modernist architectural jewels by the
likes of Albert Frey, Richard Neutra and
William Cody. Hipster hoteliers, in
turn, have begun to snap up run-down
mid-century motels that dot the
landscape of Palm Springs and Desert Hot
Springs, turning them into tiny and
secluded getaways for the aesthetically
discerning.
These revitalized motels offer a
boutique hotel experience unique to Palm
Springs: at hideaways like Sagewater
Spa, Orbit In, Desert Star, Hope Springs
and Miracle Manor, the rooms are few,
the personal attention high, and the
overall aesthetic as close as you can
get to the mid-century desert heyday.
Of course, you will not find Sinatra
in the next room, but the furniture, at
least, is authentic to the era. At the
Orbit In in downtown Palm Springs, for
example, each room is named after – and
filled with furniture by – a modernist
designer. Bertoia's Den is furnished
with his famous wire-frame chairs.
The tiny Desert Star, in South Palm
Springs, also fills each of its four
minimalist studio apartments with Eames
side tables and George Nelson bubble
lamps and thick white shag rugs.
Its owner, Steve Samiof – who, with
his wife, Misako, also runs the spa Hope
Springs in Desert Hot Springs – calls
his aesthetic "store-front modern," and
says it is helping to draw a younger
crowd that is changing the face of the
town. "I think there's a different
clientele coming to the valley," Mr.
Samiof said. It used to be golfers, but
mostly we get young people who care
about design."
The buildings of most of these hotels
have barely changed from the day they
were built, though most have been
carefully restored and appropriately
updated (often, as Ms. Epstein will
attest, with much agony). The hotels
share the same design – U-shaped
buildings surrounding a courtyard with a
pool, hidden from the street by tall
gates.
The buildings may have a few
contemporary touches – say, the sunken
Jacuzzi with a crystal-filled fire pit
at the Orbit In – but if you squint you
can imagine the shapely starlets in
modest bikinis who might have sunbathed
there some 50 years ago. Some, like
Desert Star and Hope Springs, have even
kept the original street signs out
front. Also recalling Palm Spring's past
is a sense of privacy and exclusivity.
Hidden from the world outside, these
hotels are tiny oases where you cook in
your own private kitchen, drink
cocktails on the patio and socialize
with the select few who are staying with
you (at hotels this small, there is no
avoiding the other guests).
At the Desert Star, in fact, you need
to arrange a check-in time with the
Samiofs to make sure they will be there
when you show up.
"We really wanted our own particular
brand of hospitality," said Ms. Epstein
of the Sagewater. "It feels happy here,
and there's something really cozy."
Outside the walls of the hotel, of
course, Palm Springs is still populated
by a largely blue-haired crowd, and
ticky-tacky tourist shops abound. As Mr.
Samiof puts it, "There is so much hype
about Palm Springs but there's not that
much reality – just a few good motels."
But who needs to go into town when
everything you need – refreshing pool,
strong cocktail, hot desert sun and
attractive young fellow guests – is at
your hotel?
BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN DESERT HOT
SPRINGS
SAGEWATER SPA 12689
Eliseo Road, Desert Hot Springs, (760)
251-1668
www.sagewaterspa.com. Rooms are $185
to $250.
HOPE SPRINGS 68075 Club Circle
Dr., Desert Hot Springs, (760) 329-4003
www.hopespringsresort.com. Studios
are $110 to $150. No credit cards.